LAUSR

Abstract In the present work a previously presented high-order Boussinesq-type model is extended to account for wave propagation over porous beds. The resulting wave solver is coupled with a sediment transport and morphological model to form a compound numerical tool for studying coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. The linear properties of the derived equations are studied analytically with respect to wave celerity and spatial damping rate. The values of relevant parameters for the improvement of linear properties are also reviewed. The model is tailored for simulating wave propagation over permeable submerged breakwaters. The effect of the inclusion of dispersive terms in Darcy-Forchheimer equation on the propagation of both short and long waves over a permeable submerged breakwater is studied numerically. A qualitative investigation of the wave-induced current field and the resulting morphological evolution of a sandy beach is also presented.