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Published in 2025 at "Journal of Fluid Mechanics"
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2025.124
Abstract: We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal, with attention to the region over the down-slope behind the shoal. We measure the surface elevation field, the horizontal velocity field…
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Keywords:
field;
statistics wave;
extreme statistics;
behind shoal ... See more keywords